Christopher Kimball was a co-founder and editor for America’s Test Kitchen and its magazine, Cook’s Illustrated, for many years before starting his current business, Milk Street, a Boston-based cooking school and media company. His first Milk Street cookbook was a finalist for a James Beard Award, and his new book, “Milk Street: Tuesday Nights,” has found a spot on many food editors’ lists of 2018’s best cookbooks.
That’s because Kimball and his team have a winning formula for creating or adapting interesting recipes that resonate with busy home cooks.
“If you flip through these pages,” he writes in the book’s intro, “you will notice two things: simplicity and big flavors. That is how you get supper on the table quickly on Tuesday nights while also delivering great food.”
“Tuesday Nights” includes recipes from around the world, especially Asian and Middle Eastern dishes. The first three chapters are titled “Fast” (less than 45 minutes), “Faster” (30 to 35 minutes) and “Fastest” (less than 30 minutes).
This pork tenderloin recipe is from the “Faster” chapter.
Earthy, hot smoked paprika, otherwise known as pimenton de la Vera, is a defining flavor of Basque cooking. We combine it with regular sweet paprika, thyme and garlic to give smoky-spicy flavor to pan-roasted pork tenderloins. If you can’t find hot smoked paprika, use sweet smoked paprika but add 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper for a bit of heat. Remove the pork from the oven when it hits 135 degrees; it will continue to cook with residual heat as you make the sauce.
Paprika-Rubbed Pork Tenderloin
- 1 tablespoon sweet paprika
- 2 teaspoons hot smoked paprika
- 2 teaspoons fresh thyme, minced
- Kosher salt and ground black pepper
- Two 1-1/4-pound pork tenderloins, trimmed of silver skin and halved crosswise
- 2 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil
- 6 medium garlic cloves, thinly sliced
- 2 teaspoons honey
- 3/4 cup low-sodium chicken broth
- 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
- 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) salted butter, chilled and cut into 10 pieces
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Heat the oven to 450 degrees with a rack in the middle position. In a large bowl, mix together both paprikas, the thyme and 2 teaspoons salt. Add the pork, turn to coat and massage into the meat. Let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes.
In an oven-safe 12-inch skillet over medium-high, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the pork and cook, turning occasionally, until browned on all sides, about 4 minutes. Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast until the center of the thickest piece reaches 135 degrees, or just slightly pink when cut into, 9 to 12 minutes.
Using an oven mitt, transfer the skillet from the oven to the stovetop. Transfer the pork to a large plate, tent with foil, and let rest 10 minutes. Meanwhile, add the garlic to the skillet and cook over medium-high, stirring constantly, until toasted and fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the honey and stir until it slightly darkens, about 30 seconds. Pour in the broth and simmer until reduced and thickened slightly, about 2 minutes.
Add the vinegar and simmer for 30 seconds. Add the butter 1 piece at a time, swirling the pan to emulsify the sauce before adding more butter. (Swirling the butter in 1 tablespoon at a time creates an emulsified sauce that’s glossy and full-bodied. If the sauce breaks and the butter separates, drizzle in a few drops of water while swirling the pan until the sauce once again becomes shiny and emulsified.) Remove from the heat and stir in the parsley. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Cut the tenderloins crosswise into thin slices and arrange on a platter. Spoon the sauce over the pork.
Makes 4 servings.
Excerpted from “Milk Street: Tuesday Nights” by Christopher Kimball. Used with permission of Little, Brown and Company, New York. All rights reserved.
Chris Ross is a section editor for the San Diego Union Tribune and covers food, travel, and home and garden. Email her at email@example.com