Daffodils not blooming
Though most of the daffodils across the state have put on a good show, some gardeners have noticed their plants have failed to bloom. Bloom failure can be attributed to a number of factors including removing the foliage after flowering, overcrowding, bulbs overheating (either in storage or when planted shallow) or undersized bulbs. In this case, the most probable reason is last year's Easter record-setting freeze damaging the foliage to the point that less food was available to form flower buds.
Flower buds are formed during the time between flowering and when the foliage dies back naturally. With daffodils, this can take six weeks or longer.
Since the Easter Freeze took place April 6 and 7, 2007, daffodils had little time to recapture the energy from the leaves if the freeze damaged the plant. Such plants should recover and bloom next year as long as no further damage occurs.
Always remember the most critical time for plant care is AFTER bloom -- that is when your efforts will pay off in a better bloom next spring.
FRUIT
Remove blossoms on newly planted strawberries
Spring-bearing strawberry plants that were set out this spring should have blossoms pinched off. New plants have a limited amount of energy. If blossoms remain on the plants, the energy that should go to runner development is used to mature fruit instead.
For a good strawberry plant population and a good strawberry crop next year, early runner development is necessary. Early developing runners will produce the most strawberries next spring.
Newly planted everbearing plants also should have the fruits removed for the first 4 to 6 weeks after planting so they develop a strong root system.
ORNAMENTALS
How to prune pines
Pines can be recognized by the arrangement of their needles, which are arranged in bundles. The most common pines have bundles of two (Austrian, Mugo and Scotch), three (Ponderosa), and five (White) needles. Pines grow by putting out a thick shoot from the terminal end of each branch in the spring.
This new growth is called a candle. As the candle matures, new needles pull away from the candle and start to elongate. Pines normally are pruned in late spring when the candles have made full elongation and the new needles are starting to pull away.
By cutting these candles back one-half to two-thirds, we can help control the height and width of the trees. This also encourages denser growth.
The central leader at the top of the tree often is cut back to 12 inches and side laterals cut to maintain a pyramidal shape. Hand clippers rather than hedge shears are recommended because they are less likely to damage new, expanding needles.
Pines do not react well to severe pruning because they normally do not produce new buds on old wood. Therefore, cutting back pines past the candles can leave a deformed tree that will not fill in. Overgrown plants need to be tolerated or removed.
Borers on Pines?
If you see a row of holes on pine trees, the problem is not borers. Borer holes will be randomly spaced over the trunk. Holes that are in a horizontal (most common) or vertical row are caused by the feeding of the yellow-bellied sapsucker. This woodpecker makes shallow holes and then feeds on the sap released from the wounds or on insects attracted to the site.
Other trees this bird often attacks include maples and Bradford pear, but about any tree species is a potential target. Surprisingly, certain trees may become favorites to the exclusion of nearby trees of the same species. Damage to mature, established trees is usually slight and temporary though small trees may be girdled and killed. To control them, you have a couple of options:
- Wrap the trunk with fine wire mesh in the area of damage. This may discourage them if left in place for several months. The mesh MUST be adjusted every six months or removed when no longer needed. If the mesh is left in place, the tree will likely be girdled.
- Use Tanglefoot on the area of damage. This is a sticky material that is applied to tree trunks to capture insects that crawl up the trunk. Yellow-bellied sapsuckers do not like to put their feet in the sticky material.
Jim Hruskoci is the Extension Horticulture Specialist
